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Fabrics and waterproofing

UPF

Also called Ultraviolet Protection Factor, UPF 50+

What is UPF?

UPF, or Ultraviolet Protection Factor, rates how much ultraviolet radiation a fabric blocks. A UPF 30 garment lets about one thirtieth of the UV hitting it through, so it blocks roughly 96.7 percent; UPF 50 lets one fiftieth through, or 98 percent.

UPF at a glance

UPF 30
Blocks about 96.7 percent of UV
UPF 50
Blocks about 98 percent of UV
US labelling
ASTM D6603
US test method
AATCC TM183
Australia and NZ
AS/NZS 4399

How the number works

UPF is a fraction turned upside down. A UPF 30 fabric lets about one thirtieth of the ultraviolet radiation hitting it reach your skin, which is 3.3 percent through and roughly 96.7 percent blocked. UPF 50 lets one fiftieth through, so 2 percent gets past and 98 percent does not.

Which is why the gap between the ratings is smaller than it looks. Moving from 30 to 50 buys about 1.3 percentage points of extra blocking, not a doubling of anything. Anything testing above 50 is labelled 50+ rather than given a number, because the measurement stops being meaningful up there.

Which standard governs the label

In the United States the labelling is set by ASTM D6603, the specification for labelling UV-protective textiles, and the transmittance behind it is measured by AATCC TM183. Both are voluntary: nothing compels a maker to test a shirt or to print the result on it.

Australia and New Zealand, which have the most sun-conscious clothing market anywhere, use AS/NZS 4399, which covers the measurement and the classification together. Its output is the 15, 30 and 50+ banding that now turns up on garments worldwide.

What actually changes a fabric's UPF

Mostly how much light gets through the gaps. A dense weave or knit blocks more than a sheer one of the same weight, and deeper colors absorb more UV than pale ones. Fiber matters too: shiny polyesters reflect UV, unbleached cotton carries natural lignins that absorb it, and some fabrics add a mineral treatment such as titanium dioxide to lift the number further.

Two things lower it in use, and both are easy to forget. Stretching the fabric opens the gaps, so a top pulled tight across a shoulder protects less than the tag says. And a wet fabric transmits more UV than a dry one: a white cotton T-shirt rates about UPF 7 dry and about 3 soaked, which is worth knowing on exactly the day you are most likely to soak a shirt.

Does a base layer need a UPF rating?

It matters on the days the base layer is the only layer. A long-sleeved top worn alone above treeline is doing the job of sunscreen on your arms and shoulders, and doing it without needing to be reapplied, which is the real advantage clothing has.

Coverage beats the number, though. A UPF 50+ short sleeve protects nothing below the elbow, and a hood, a collar and long sleeves at UPF 30 cover far more skin than a higher rating on a smaller area ever will.

What this means when you're choosing

  • A stated UPF number rather than the words sun protective on their own
  • Coverage: sleeves, a collar and a hood matter more than the rating does
  • A dense knit, since UPF drops when fabric is stretched or wet
  • Whether the rating is tested to ASTM D6603 or AS/NZS 4399 or simply claimed

UPF vs SPF

UPFSPF
Applies toFabricSunscreen on skin
CoversUVA and UVBUVB only
Based onHow much UV the material transmitsHow long skin takes to redden
Wears offNo, though stretching and water lower itYes, needs reapplying every couple of hours

Which to pick: Clothing is the more reliable of the two because it never needs reapplying. Use UPF fabric for what it covers and sunscreen for the face, neck and hands it does not.

The common mistake

Reading UPF as if it were SPF

They are different scales for different things. SPF is a sunscreen number built on how long UVB-exposed skin takes to redden; UPF describes what a fabric transmits, across UVA and UVB together. A UPF 50 shirt is not fifty times better than a UPF 30 one. It blocks 1.3 percentage points more.

Common questions

Is UPF 50 much better than UPF 30?

Marginally. UPF 30 blocks about 96.7 percent of UV and UPF 50 about 98, so the upgrade is worth 1.3 percentage points. How much skin the garment covers makes a far bigger difference than moving up a band.

Does UPF wash out?

A rating that comes from the weave and the fiber does not, and many fabrics tighten slightly with washing and rate a shade higher. A rating that leans on a mineral or chemical treatment can fade, so check whether the maker says the protection is inherent to the fabric.

Does an ordinary shirt have a UPF?

Every fabric transmits some UV, so yes, it simply is not measured. The Skin Cancer Foundation puts a white cotton T-shirt at about UPF 7, dropping to about 3 once it is wet, which is a long way below anything sold as sun protective.

Where this comes up

Guides on Tom's Hiking where upf changes which product is right for you.

Going deeper

More in fabrics and waterproofing

DWR

DWR is a chemical finish applied to the outside of a rain shell so water beads up and rolls off instead of soaking into the face fabric. It wears off with use and washing, and reviving it is routine maintenance rather than a repair.

Waterproof-breathable membrane

A waterproof-breathable membrane is a thin film bonded inside a shell fabric with pores small enough to block liquid water but large enough to pass water vapour. It's what makes a rain jacket different from a plastic poncho.

Gore-Tex

Gore-Tex is a brand of waterproof-breathable membrane made by W. L. Gore & Associates, and the name most people know the technology by. Gore licenses it to clothing makers under strict construction rules rather than selling finished garments.

ePTFE

ePTFE is expanded polytetrafluoroethylene, the microporous film at the heart of the original Gore-Tex and several competing membranes. Stretching PTFE creates billions of pores per square inch that block liquid water and pass vapour.

Hydrostatic head

Hydrostatic head measures how much water pressure a fabric holds before it leaks, expressed as a column height in millimetres. A 20,000 mm rating means a 20-meter column of water sat on the fabric before the first drops came through.

MVTR

MVTR measures how much water vapour passes through a fabric in a day, given in grams per square meter per 24 hours. Higher numbers mean a more breathable fabric, with most hiking shells landing between 10,000 and 25,000.

RET

RET measures how much a fabric resists the evaporation of sweat, tested under ISO 11092. It runs the opposite way to most ratings: lower is better, with under 6 counting as extremely breathable and over 20 as barely breathable at all.

Wetting out

Wetting out is when a shell's outer fabric absorbs water instead of shedding it, because the DWR finish has worn off. The membrane still blocks rain, but breathability collapses and the jacket feels like it's leaking from the inside.

Seam tape

Seam tape is a waterproof strip heat-bonded over the stitch line inside a garment or tent. Every needle hole is a hole in the waterproofing, so a shell with an untaped seam leaks there regardless of how good the fabric is.

2L, 2.5L and 3L laminates

These describe how many layers are bonded together in a shell. 2L has a loose liner hanging inside, 2.5L prints a protective pattern straight onto the membrane, and 3L bonds a fabric backer to it. Durability and next-to-skin feel go up with each step.

Denier

Denier is the weight in grams of 9,000 meters of a yarn, written as a number followed by D. It describes how thick the individual threads are, so higher denier usually means a heavier, tougher fabric, though weave and material matter too.

Dyneema Composite Fabric

Dyneema Composite Fabric is a non-woven laminate of UHMWPE fibers sandwiched between polyester films. It is waterproof from the moment it is made, does not stretch or sag when wet, and is the lightest shelter material in common use, at several times the price.

Ripstop

Ripstop is a weave with thicker reinforcing threads laid in at regular intervals, forming the faint grid you can see on tent and pack fabric. The grid does not stop a tear starting, it stops one that has started from running across the whole panel.

Silnylon

Silnylon is ripstop nylon impregnated with silicone on both faces, the standard fabric for lightweight tents and tarps. It is strong and cheap for its weight, and it stretches when wet, which is why a silnylon shelter sags overnight and needs retensioning.

PU coating

A PU coating is a polyurethane layer applied to the inside of a tent, pack or stuff sack fabric to make it waterproof. It is cheap, takes seam tape well and is what most budget shelters use, and it breaks down with age in a way silicone does not.

Cordura

Cordura is a brand of high-tenacity nylon fabric known for abrasion resistance, used where a pack meets rock and grit. It is a specification a mill licenses rather than a single fabric, so Cordura appears in weights from light shelter cloth to heavy pack bottoms.

Softshell

A softshell is a stretchy woven fabric with a brushed or knitted backing that blocks wind and sheds light rain while still breathing hard. It replaces a rain shell on cold, dry, windy days and is the standard fabric for technical hiking pants.

Base layer

A base layer is the garment worn directly against your skin under everything else. Its job is moving sweat off your skin so it evaporates somewhere other than on you, which is why warmth is a secondary consideration and cotton is disqualified.

Merino wool

Merino wool is fine-diameter wool from Merino sheep, spun for next-to-skin clothing at roughly 17 to 19.5 microns. That fineness is what stops it prickling, and it brings odour resistance and warmth when damp at the cost of abrasion life.

Fabric weight (gsm)

Fabric weight in gsm is the mass of one square meter of the cloth, in grams. On a base layer it is the single number that sets the temperature window: about 150 gsm for warm weather, about 200 gsm for three-season hiking, 280 and up for cold.

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