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Fabrics and waterproofing

Softshell

Also called soft shell, softshell fabric

What is a softshell?

A softshell is a stretchy woven fabric with a brushed or knitted backing that blocks wind and sheds light rain while still breathing hard. It replaces a rain shell on cold, dry, windy days and is the standard fabric for technical hiking pants.

Softshell at a glance

Blocks
Wind, and light rain for a while
Does not block
Sustained rain
Breathability
Far higher than a hardshell
Typical use
Hiking pants and cold-dry outer layers

What makes a fabric a softshell

Softshell describes a construction rather than a specific material. A woven face fabric, usually nylon or polyester with a few percent elastane, is bonded or knitted to a backing that is often brushed for warmth. The result stretches in at least two directions, blocks most wind, and passes water vapour far more freely than any waterproof membrane can.

The name is a deliberate contrast with a hardshell, which is a waterproof rain jacket. A hardshell keeps rain out and traps sweat in. A softshell does the opposite trade.

Wind resistance is the point, not waterproofing

Moving air strips heat from you far faster than still air of the same temperature, so a fabric tight enough to cut wind is worth more on an exposed ridge than extra thickness would be. That is the property you are actually buying.

Most softshells are rated as wind-resistant rather than windproof, and a small number use a membrane to reach genuinely windproof, at some cost to breathability. Either way the fabric only holds off light precipitation, using a DWR finish on the face. In sustained rain it wets out like any other unmembraned fabric.

Where softshell belongs in a layering system

The classic use is as an outer layer on cold, dry, windy days, worn instead of a rain shell rather than under one. It breathes well enough to climb in, which is exactly what a hardshell cannot do, and it is quiet and comfortable in a way coated fabrics are not.

The other common use is trousers. Most technical hiking pants are softshells or light stretch wovens, because legs generate a lot of heat, have little insulation, and are rarely worth waterproofing on their own.

What you give up

Weight and packed size, mostly. A softshell is heavier and bulkier than a light rain shell offering more actual weather protection, which is why fast-and-light hikers often skip it and pair a wind shirt with a hardshell instead.

It also cannot be your only outer layer in a wet climate. If rain is likely, a softshell is a mid layer and you still carry a waterproof.

What this means when you're choosing

  • Whether the maker claims wind-resistant or windproof, since the second usually means a membrane and less breathability
  • Whether the face carries a DWR finish, which is what handles drizzle and spray
  • How much elastane is in the weave, since stretch is most of what separates a softshell from a plain woven
  • Whether the backing is brushed, which adds warmth you may not want in summer

The common mistake

Buying a softshell expecting it to replace a rain jacket

A softshell is not waterproof and no amount of reproofing will make it so. Treat it as a wind layer that tolerates drizzle, and keep a hardshell in the pack for when it actually rains.

Common questions

Is a softshell waterproof?

No. A softshell sheds light rain because of the DWR finish on its face fabric, but it has no waterproof membrane and it wets out under sustained rain. It is a wind layer that tolerates drizzle, not a substitute for a rain shell.

Softshell or hardshell for hiking?

A softshell if the day is cold, dry and windy, because it breathes well enough to climb in. A hardshell if rain is likely, because nothing else keeps it out. Many people carry a light hardshell and wear a softshell underneath, which covers both.

Where this is defined

Where this comes up

Guides on Tom's Hiking where softshell changes which product is right for you.

More in fabrics and waterproofing

DWR

DWR is a chemical finish applied to the outside of a rain shell so water beads up and rolls off instead of soaking into the face fabric. It wears off with use and washing, and reviving it is routine maintenance rather than a repair.

Waterproof-breathable membrane

A waterproof-breathable membrane is a thin film bonded inside a shell fabric with pores small enough to block liquid water but large enough to pass water vapour. It's what makes a rain jacket different from a plastic poncho.

Gore-Tex

Gore-Tex is a brand of waterproof-breathable membrane made by W. L. Gore & Associates, and the name most people know the technology by. Gore licenses it to clothing makers under strict construction rules rather than selling finished garments.

ePTFE

ePTFE is expanded polytetrafluoroethylene, the microporous film at the heart of the original Gore-Tex and several competing membranes. Stretching PTFE creates billions of pores per square inch that block liquid water and pass vapour.

Hydrostatic head

Hydrostatic head measures how much water pressure a fabric holds before it leaks, expressed as a column height in millimetres. A 20,000 mm rating means a 20-meter column of water sat on the fabric before the first drops came through.

MVTR

MVTR measures how much water vapour passes through a fabric in a day, given in grams per square meter per 24 hours. Higher numbers mean a more breathable fabric, with most hiking shells landing between 10,000 and 25,000.

RET

RET measures how much a fabric resists the evaporation of sweat, tested under ISO 11092. It runs the opposite way to most ratings: lower is better, with under 6 counting as extremely breathable and over 20 as barely breathable at all.

Wetting out

Wetting out is when a shell's outer fabric absorbs water instead of shedding it, because the DWR finish has worn off. The membrane still blocks rain, but breathability collapses and the jacket feels like it's leaking from the inside.

Seam tape

Seam tape is a waterproof strip heat-bonded over the stitch line inside a garment or tent. Every needle hole is a hole in the waterproofing, so a shell with an untaped seam leaks there regardless of how good the fabric is.

2L, 2.5L and 3L laminates

These describe how many layers are bonded together in a shell. 2L has a loose liner hanging inside, 2.5L prints a protective pattern straight onto the membrane, and 3L bonds a fabric backer to it. Durability and next-to-skin feel go up with each step.

Denier

Denier is the weight in grams of 9,000 meters of a yarn, written as a number followed by D. It describes how thick the individual threads are, so higher denier usually means a heavier, tougher fabric, though weave and material matter too.

Dyneema Composite Fabric

Dyneema Composite Fabric is a non-woven laminate of UHMWPE fibers sandwiched between polyester films. It is waterproof from the moment it is made, does not stretch or sag when wet, and is the lightest shelter material in common use, at several times the price.

Ripstop

Ripstop is a weave with thicker reinforcing threads laid in at regular intervals, forming the faint grid you can see on tent and pack fabric. The grid does not stop a tear starting, it stops one that has started from running across the whole panel.

Silnylon

Silnylon is ripstop nylon impregnated with silicone on both faces, the standard fabric for lightweight tents and tarps. It is strong and cheap for its weight, and it stretches when wet, which is why a silnylon shelter sags overnight and needs retensioning.

PU coating

A PU coating is a polyurethane layer applied to the inside of a tent, pack or stuff sack fabric to make it waterproof. It is cheap, takes seam tape well and is what most budget shelters use, and it breaks down with age in a way silicone does not.

Cordura

Cordura is a brand of high-tenacity nylon fabric known for abrasion resistance, used where a pack meets rock and grit. It is a specification a mill licenses rather than a single fabric, so Cordura appears in weights from light shelter cloth to heavy pack bottoms.

Base layer

A base layer is the garment worn directly against your skin under everything else. Its job is moving sweat off your skin so it evaporates somewhere other than on you, which is why warmth is a secondary consideration and cotton is disqualified.

Merino wool

Merino wool is fine-diameter wool from Merino sheep, spun for next-to-skin clothing at roughly 17 to 19.5 microns. That fineness is what stops it prickling, and it brings odour resistance and warmth when damp at the cost of abrasion life.

Fabric weight (gsm)

Fabric weight in gsm is the mass of one square meter of the cloth, in grams. On a base layer it is the single number that sets the temperature window: about 150 gsm for warm weather, about 200 gsm for three-season hiking, 280 and up for cold.

UPF

UPF, or Ultraviolet Protection Factor, rates how much ultraviolet radiation a fabric blocks. A UPF 30 garment lets about one thirtieth of the UV hitting it through, so it blocks roughly 96.7 percent; UPF 50 lets one fiftieth through, or 98 percent.

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