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Fabrics and waterproofing

Gore-Tex

What is Gore-Tex?

Gore-Tex is a brand of waterproof-breathable membrane made by W. L. Gore & Associates, and the name most people know the technology by. Gore licenses it to clothing makers under strict construction rules rather than selling finished garments.

Gore-Tex at a glance

Made by
W. L. Gore & Associates
Sold as
Membrane and laminate, not jackets
Original film
ePTFE

Gore licenses, it does not make jackets

Gore doesn't make jackets. It makes membrane and laminate, licenses it to brands, and enforces how the finished garment is built, including which seams get taped and how the whole thing is tested. That control is a real part of what you're buying: a Gore-Tex jacket from any brand has passed the same construction requirements.

What the membrane actually is

The original membrane is ePTFE, expanded polytetrafluoroethylene, a stretched fluoropolymer film full of microscopic pores. Newer Gore-Tex products increasingly use an ePE membrane, expanded polyethylene, developed to move away from PFC chemistry. Both do the same job for a wearer.

What Pro, Active and Paclite mean

The product names describe construction more than performance. Gore-Tex Pro is the heavy-duty 3-layer build for mountaineering and hard use. Paclite is a stripped-down 2.5-layer build aimed at packability. Infinium is not waterproof at all, which surprises people, and Gore-Tex Shakedry put the membrane on the outside for exceptional breathability before being discontinued.

Why a Gore-Tex jacket can still feel wet inside

Almost always condensation rather than a leak. A membrane moves vapour by letting it pass into drier air on the other side, so it needs a gradient. Work hard in warm, humid rain and you produce sweat faster than any membrane can move it, and the difference condenses on the inside of the jacket exactly where a leak would.

The other cause is wetting out: once the face fabric is saturated there is no dry air on the far side of the membrane and breathability collapses entirely. That is a maintenance problem, not a fabric failure, and it is the reason a five-year-old shell feels so much worse than a new one.

How to wash and maintain it

Wash it, and more often than feels right. Body oils, sunscreen and detergent residue are what kill the DWR, and a jacket that has never been washed is usually the one that wets out first. Use a technical cleaner rather than ordinary detergent, run a second rinse, and never use fabric softener.

Then tumble dry on low to medium heat for twenty minutes, which reactivates the existing finish. If water still soaks in rather than beading after that, top it up with a wash-in or spray-on DWR. The whole cycle takes an evening and restores most shells to something close to new.

Is it worth it over other membranes?

Gore-Tex is not the only competent membrane and has not been for a long time. Competing laminates and brands' own membranes reach comparable waterproofing, and some beat it on breathability. What Gore reliably brings is consistency: it licenses under construction rules and tests the finished garment, so a Gore-Tex shell from an unfamiliar brand is a much safer bet than an unnamed membrane from the same brand.

The practical read is that a named membrane of any kind tells you the maker is willing to be measured, and an unnamed one usually means a polyurethane coating that will not last as long.

What this means when you're choosing

  • Which Gore-Tex product it is, since Pro, Paclite and Infinium are not comparable
  • Whether you need the durability you're paying for, because Pro is heavy
  • The garment's ventilation and fit, which vary far more than the membrane does

The common mistake

Reading Gore-Tex as one performance level

Pro, Active, Paclite and the rest are different constructions with genuinely different durability and breathability. Two jackets can both say Gore-Tex and be built for different sports. Read which one before you read the price.

Common questions

Is Gore-Tex fully waterproof?

The membrane is, and Gore requires the seams to be taped, so a new garment keeps rain out reliably. What fails first is the DWR on the outer fabric, which makes the jacket feel wet without the membrane letting anything through.

Does Gore-Tex wear out?

The membrane can eventually delaminate or crack after years of hard use and poor washing, but most jackets are retired long before that. Nearly every complaint about an aging Gore-Tex shell is really about DWR or a failed seam tape.

Where this is defined

Where this comes up

Guides on Tom's Hiking where gore-tex changes which product is right for you.

Going deeper

More in fabrics and waterproofing

DWR

DWR is a chemical finish applied to the outside of a rain shell so water beads up and rolls off instead of soaking into the face fabric. It wears off with use and washing, and reviving it is routine maintenance rather than a repair.

Waterproof-breathable membrane

A waterproof-breathable membrane is a thin film bonded inside a shell fabric with pores small enough to block liquid water but large enough to pass water vapour. It's what makes a rain jacket different from a plastic poncho.

ePTFE

ePTFE is expanded polytetrafluoroethylene, the microporous film at the heart of the original Gore-Tex and several competing membranes. Stretching PTFE creates billions of pores per square inch that block liquid water and pass vapour.

Hydrostatic head

Hydrostatic head measures how much water pressure a fabric holds before it leaks, expressed as a column height in millimetres. A 20,000 mm rating means a 20-meter column of water sat on the fabric before the first drops came through.

MVTR

MVTR measures how much water vapour passes through a fabric in a day, given in grams per square meter per 24 hours. Higher numbers mean a more breathable fabric, with most hiking shells landing between 10,000 and 25,000.

RET

RET measures how much a fabric resists the evaporation of sweat, tested under ISO 11092. It runs the opposite way to most ratings: lower is better, with under 6 counting as extremely breathable and over 20 as barely breathable at all.

Wetting out

Wetting out is when a shell's outer fabric absorbs water instead of shedding it, because the DWR finish has worn off. The membrane still blocks rain, but breathability collapses and the jacket feels like it's leaking from the inside.

Seam tape

Seam tape is a waterproof strip heat-bonded over the stitch line inside a garment or tent. Every needle hole is a hole in the waterproofing, so a shell with an untaped seam leaks there regardless of how good the fabric is.

2L, 2.5L and 3L laminates

These describe how many layers are bonded together in a shell. 2L has a loose liner hanging inside, 2.5L prints a protective pattern straight onto the membrane, and 3L bonds a fabric backer to it. Durability and next-to-skin feel go up with each step.

Denier

Denier is the weight in grams of 9,000 meters of a yarn, written as a number followed by D. It describes how thick the individual threads are, so higher denier usually means a heavier, tougher fabric, though weave and material matter too.

Dyneema Composite Fabric

Dyneema Composite Fabric is a non-woven laminate of UHMWPE fibers sandwiched between polyester films. It is waterproof from the moment it is made, does not stretch or sag when wet, and is the lightest shelter material in common use, at several times the price.

Ripstop

Ripstop is a weave with thicker reinforcing threads laid in at regular intervals, forming the faint grid you can see on tent and pack fabric. The grid does not stop a tear starting, it stops one that has started from running across the whole panel.

Silnylon

Silnylon is ripstop nylon impregnated with silicone on both faces, the standard fabric for lightweight tents and tarps. It is strong and cheap for its weight, and it stretches when wet, which is why a silnylon shelter sags overnight and needs retensioning.

PU coating

A PU coating is a polyurethane layer applied to the inside of a tent, pack or stuff sack fabric to make it waterproof. It is cheap, takes seam tape well and is what most budget shelters use, and it breaks down with age in a way silicone does not.

Cordura

Cordura is a brand of high-tenacity nylon fabric known for abrasion resistance, used where a pack meets rock and grit. It is a specification a mill licenses rather than a single fabric, so Cordura appears in weights from light shelter cloth to heavy pack bottoms.

Softshell

A softshell is a stretchy woven fabric with a brushed or knitted backing that blocks wind and sheds light rain while still breathing hard. It replaces a rain shell on cold, dry, windy days and is the standard fabric for technical hiking pants.

Base layer

A base layer is the garment worn directly against your skin under everything else. Its job is moving sweat off your skin so it evaporates somewhere other than on you, which is why warmth is a secondary consideration and cotton is disqualified.

Merino wool

Merino wool is fine-diameter wool from Merino sheep, spun for next-to-skin clothing at roughly 17 to 19.5 microns. That fineness is what stops it prickling, and it brings odour resistance and warmth when damp at the cost of abrasion life.

Fabric weight (gsm)

Fabric weight in gsm is the mass of one square meter of the cloth, in grams. On a base layer it is the single number that sets the temperature window: about 150 gsm for warm weather, about 200 gsm for three-season hiking, 280 and up for cold.

UPF

UPF, or Ultraviolet Protection Factor, rates how much ultraviolet radiation a fabric blocks. A UPF 30 garment lets about one thirtieth of the UV hitting it through, so it blocks roughly 96.7 percent; UPF 50 lets one fiftieth through, or 98 percent.

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