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Fabrics and waterproofing

Base layer

Also called baselayer, next-to-skin layer, thermal top

What is a base layer?

A base layer is the garment worn directly against your skin under everything else. Its job is moving sweat off your skin so it evaporates somewhere other than on you, which is why warmth is a secondary consideration and cotton is disqualified.

Base layer at a glance

Sits
Directly against skin
Job
Moving sweat, not insulating
Common fibers
Merino, polyester, blends of the two
Never
Cotton

What a base layer is actually for

Its first job is moving sweat off your skin, not keeping you warm. Warmth is what the mid layer does. A base layer that wicks well holds a thin film of dry air against you while you are working, and that film is what stops the sudden chill when you reach a windy col and your output drops to nothing.

This is why the layer is chosen on how the fabric behaves rather than on how thick it is. A heavy top that keeps sweat against you is worse in every condition than a thin one that moves it, because wet fabric pulls heat out of you many times faster than dry fabric does.

How it differs from a mid layer and a shell

Three layers, three jobs. The base moves moisture, the mid traps still air, and the shell blocks wind and rain. A fleece worn straight against skin is a mid layer doing a base layer's work badly, and a rain jacket over bare skin is a sauna.

The distinction matters when you are buying, because the three are cut against each other. A base layer is close fitting so it touches skin everywhere, a mid layer is cut to fit over it, and a shell is cut to fit over both.

Merino or synthetic?

Merino resists odour for days and holds some warmth when damp. Polyester dries faster, costs less and survives more washes and more pack-strap abrasion. Neither is the right answer for everyone, and plenty of good tops blend the two to get most of both.

The choice people actually regret is weight rather than fiber. A top bought for the coldest morning of the trip is the one you sweat through on the first climb.

Why cotton is disqualified

Cotton absorbs many times its own weight in water, holds it against your skin, and gives up nearly all of its insulating value while it is wet. On a warm valley walk that is only uncomfortable. On an exposed ridge in wind it is the first step in the sequence that ends in hypothermia, which is why the advice gets repeated until it sounds like a slogan.

What this means when you're choosing

  • The fabric weight in gsm, which is what sets the temperature window
  • A close cut, since a base layer only works where it touches skin
  • Flatlock or offset seams, because a shoulder seam under a pack strap is what rubs
  • Nylon in the blend if it is merino, which is what makes it last

Base layer vs Mid layer

Base layerMid layer
JobMoves sweat off skinTraps still air to insulate
WornAgainst skin, kept on all dayOver the base, added and removed
Typical fabricMerino or polyester knit, 120 to 260 gsmFleece, down or synthetic fill
How it failsIt holds sweat and then chills youIt gets wet and stops lofting

Which to pick: You want both, doing their own jobs: a thin base you keep on all day and a mid layer you take off the moment the climb starts.

The common mistake

Buying the warmest one

A base layer is worn while you are generating heat, so the heavyweight top that felt right in the shop is the one you soak on the first climb. Most three-season hiking is better served by a midweight, with the warmth added over the top when you stop.

Common questions

Should a base layer be tight?

Close, not compressive. It moves moisture by contact, so a top that hangs off you leaves gaps where sweat sits on skin instead. It should follow your shape without restricting a full arm swing.

Can you wear a base layer on its own?

Yes, and most hikers do for a good part of the year. That is the case for caring about sun protection and about how the shoulders are seamed, because on those days the base layer is also the outer layer.

How many base layers should I own?

Two covers most people: a lightweight top for warm months and a midweight for the rest. A heavyweight only earns its place if you hike in real cold at a low enough effort not to sweat through it.

Where this comes up

Guides on Tom's Hiking where base layer changes which product is right for you.

More in fabrics and waterproofing

DWR

DWR is a chemical finish applied to the outside of a rain shell so water beads up and rolls off instead of soaking into the face fabric. It wears off with use and washing, and reviving it is routine maintenance rather than a repair.

Waterproof-breathable membrane

A waterproof-breathable membrane is a thin film bonded inside a shell fabric with pores small enough to block liquid water but large enough to pass water vapour. It's what makes a rain jacket different from a plastic poncho.

Gore-Tex

Gore-Tex is a brand of waterproof-breathable membrane made by W. L. Gore & Associates, and the name most people know the technology by. Gore licenses it to clothing makers under strict construction rules rather than selling finished garments.

ePTFE

ePTFE is expanded polytetrafluoroethylene, the microporous film at the heart of the original Gore-Tex and several competing membranes. Stretching PTFE creates billions of pores per square inch that block liquid water and pass vapour.

Hydrostatic head

Hydrostatic head measures how much water pressure a fabric holds before it leaks, expressed as a column height in millimetres. A 20,000 mm rating means a 20-meter column of water sat on the fabric before the first drops came through.

MVTR

MVTR measures how much water vapour passes through a fabric in a day, given in grams per square meter per 24 hours. Higher numbers mean a more breathable fabric, with most hiking shells landing between 10,000 and 25,000.

RET

RET measures how much a fabric resists the evaporation of sweat, tested under ISO 11092. It runs the opposite way to most ratings: lower is better, with under 6 counting as extremely breathable and over 20 as barely breathable at all.

Wetting out

Wetting out is when a shell's outer fabric absorbs water instead of shedding it, because the DWR finish has worn off. The membrane still blocks rain, but breathability collapses and the jacket feels like it's leaking from the inside.

Seam tape

Seam tape is a waterproof strip heat-bonded over the stitch line inside a garment or tent. Every needle hole is a hole in the waterproofing, so a shell with an untaped seam leaks there regardless of how good the fabric is.

2L, 2.5L and 3L laminates

These describe how many layers are bonded together in a shell. 2L has a loose liner hanging inside, 2.5L prints a protective pattern straight onto the membrane, and 3L bonds a fabric backer to it. Durability and next-to-skin feel go up with each step.

Denier

Denier is the weight in grams of 9,000 meters of a yarn, written as a number followed by D. It describes how thick the individual threads are, so higher denier usually means a heavier, tougher fabric, though weave and material matter too.

Dyneema Composite Fabric

Dyneema Composite Fabric is a non-woven laminate of UHMWPE fibers sandwiched between polyester films. It is waterproof from the moment it is made, does not stretch or sag when wet, and is the lightest shelter material in common use, at several times the price.

Ripstop

Ripstop is a weave with thicker reinforcing threads laid in at regular intervals, forming the faint grid you can see on tent and pack fabric. The grid does not stop a tear starting, it stops one that has started from running across the whole panel.

Silnylon

Silnylon is ripstop nylon impregnated with silicone on both faces, the standard fabric for lightweight tents and tarps. It is strong and cheap for its weight, and it stretches when wet, which is why a silnylon shelter sags overnight and needs retensioning.

PU coating

A PU coating is a polyurethane layer applied to the inside of a tent, pack or stuff sack fabric to make it waterproof. It is cheap, takes seam tape well and is what most budget shelters use, and it breaks down with age in a way silicone does not.

Cordura

Cordura is a brand of high-tenacity nylon fabric known for abrasion resistance, used where a pack meets rock and grit. It is a specification a mill licenses rather than a single fabric, so Cordura appears in weights from light shelter cloth to heavy pack bottoms.

Softshell

A softshell is a stretchy woven fabric with a brushed or knitted backing that blocks wind and sheds light rain while still breathing hard. It replaces a rain shell on cold, dry, windy days and is the standard fabric for technical hiking pants.

Merino wool

Merino wool is fine-diameter wool from Merino sheep, spun for next-to-skin clothing at roughly 17 to 19.5 microns. That fineness is what stops it prickling, and it brings odour resistance and warmth when damp at the cost of abrasion life.

Fabric weight (gsm)

Fabric weight in gsm is the mass of one square meter of the cloth, in grams. On a base layer it is the single number that sets the temperature window: about 150 gsm for warm weather, about 200 gsm for three-season hiking, 280 and up for cold.

UPF

UPF, or Ultraviolet Protection Factor, rates how much ultraviolet radiation a fabric blocks. A UPF 30 garment lets about one thirtieth of the UV hitting it through, so it blocks roughly 96.7 percent; UPF 50 lets one fiftieth through, or 98 percent.

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