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Fabrics and waterproofing

DWR

Also called durable water repellent

What is DWR?

DWR is a chemical finish applied to the outside of a rain shell so water beads up and rolls off instead of soaking into the face fabric. It wears off with use and washing, and reviving it is routine maintenance rather than a repair.

DWR at a glance

What it does
Stops the face fabric absorbing water
Lifespan
Weeks to months of use
Restored by
Technical wash plus heat

What DWR does, and does not do

The membrane inside a rain jacket is what actually stops water. DWR is the coating on the outer fabric, and its job is to stop that outer fabric from getting saturated in the first place. When it's working you see beads sitting on the surface, which is the image every jacket advert uses.

Why it wears off

It's a consumable. Abrasion from pack straps, body oils, sunscreen and detergent residue all degrade it, and after enough days out the beading stops. The fabric then absorbs water, goes dark and heavy, and stops letting vapour through, which feels exactly like the jacket leaking even though the membrane is still doing its job. That's wetting out, and it's the single most common reason people conclude a shell has failed.

How to restore it

Restoring it takes about an hour. Wash the jacket in a technical cleaner rather than ordinary detergent, then either tumble dry on low or press it with a warm iron through a cloth, because heat is what re-orients the finish. If beading doesn't come back, reapply a wash-in or spray-on DWR product and heat it again.

The move away from long-chain PFCs

The chemistry has changed recently. Long-chain PFC finishes were phased out on environmental grounds, and most brands now ship PFC-free DWR, which works well when new and generally needs reproofing more often than the old formulations did.

Wash-in or spray-on?

Spray-on treats only the outer face, which is where the finish belongs, and it leaves the inside of the garment alone. That makes it the right choice for anything with a membrane or a mesh liner, because treating the inner surface can reduce breathability.

Wash-in coats every fiber and is simpler to apply evenly, which suits unlined single-layer pieces, soft shells and gear like gaiters. If in doubt on a rain shell, use spray-on.

How often does it need doing?

There is no interval, only a test: pour water on the shoulders and forearms and see whether it beads and rolls off. Those areas go first because pack straps abrade them and your arms rub them. When water starts soaking in rather than beading, the finish is due.

For someone hiking most weekends that tends to be a wash and tumble every handful of trips, and an actual reapplication once or twice a season. Washing alone restores more than people expect, so try that before reaching for a bottle.

What this means when you're choosing

  • Whether the brand states a PFC-free finish, which most now do
  • How the jacket beads after a wash, which is the real test
  • Whether you own a technical cleaner, since ordinary detergent leaves residue that kills DWR

The common mistake

Assuming a wetted-out shell has failed

A jacket that soaks through the outside while the inside is dry has a DWR problem, not a membrane problem. People replace perfectly good shells over this every season.

Common questions

How often should I reproof a rain jacket?

When it stops beading, which for regular use is usually once or twice a season. Washing with a technical cleaner and adding heat often brings the original finish back, so try that before buying a reproofing product.

Does washing a rain jacket ruin the DWR?

The opposite, usually. Dirt and body oils are what kill DWR, so a jacket that beads badly is often just dirty. Use a technical cleaner rather than detergent and skip the fabric softener entirely.

More in fabrics and waterproofing

Waterproof-breathable membrane

A waterproof-breathable membrane is a thin film bonded inside a shell fabric with pores small enough to block liquid water but large enough to pass water vapour. It's what makes a rain jacket different from a plastic poncho.

Gore-Tex

Gore-Tex is a brand of waterproof-breathable membrane made by W. L. Gore & Associates, and the name most people know the technology by. Gore licenses it to clothing makers under strict construction rules rather than selling finished garments.

ePTFE

ePTFE is expanded polytetrafluoroethylene, the microporous film at the heart of the original Gore-Tex and several competing membranes. Stretching PTFE creates billions of pores per square inch that block liquid water and pass vapour.

Hydrostatic head

Hydrostatic head measures how much water pressure a fabric holds before it leaks, expressed as a column height in millimetres. A 20,000 mm rating means a 20-meter column of water sat on the fabric before the first drops came through.

MVTR

MVTR measures how much water vapour passes through a fabric in a day, given in grams per square meter per 24 hours. Higher numbers mean a more breathable fabric, with most hiking shells landing between 10,000 and 25,000.

RET

RET measures how much a fabric resists the evaporation of sweat, tested under ISO 11092. It runs the opposite way to most ratings: lower is better, with under 6 counting as extremely breathable and over 20 as barely breathable at all.

Wetting out

Wetting out is when a shell's outer fabric absorbs water instead of shedding it, because the DWR finish has worn off. The membrane still blocks rain, but breathability collapses and the jacket feels like it's leaking from the inside.

Seam tape

Seam tape is a waterproof strip heat-bonded over the stitch line inside a garment or tent. Every needle hole is a hole in the waterproofing, so a shell with an untaped seam leaks there regardless of how good the fabric is.

2L, 2.5L and 3L laminates

These describe how many layers are bonded together in a shell. 2L has a loose liner hanging inside, 2.5L prints a protective pattern straight onto the membrane, and 3L bonds a fabric backer to it. Durability and next-to-skin feel go up with each step.

Denier

Denier is the weight in grams of 9,000 meters of a yarn, written as a number followed by D. It describes how thick the individual threads are, so higher denier usually means a heavier, tougher fabric, though weave and material matter too.

Dyneema Composite Fabric

Dyneema Composite Fabric is a non-woven laminate of UHMWPE fibers sandwiched between polyester films. It is waterproof from the moment it is made, does not stretch or sag when wet, and is the lightest shelter material in common use, at several times the price.

Ripstop

Ripstop is a weave with thicker reinforcing threads laid in at regular intervals, forming the faint grid you can see on tent and pack fabric. The grid does not stop a tear starting, it stops one that has started from running across the whole panel.

Silnylon

Silnylon is ripstop nylon impregnated with silicone on both faces, the standard fabric for lightweight tents and tarps. It is strong and cheap for its weight, and it stretches when wet, which is why a silnylon shelter sags overnight and needs retensioning.

PU coating

A PU coating is a polyurethane layer applied to the inside of a tent, pack or stuff sack fabric to make it waterproof. It is cheap, takes seam tape well and is what most budget shelters use, and it breaks down with age in a way silicone does not.

Cordura

Cordura is a brand of high-tenacity nylon fabric known for abrasion resistance, used where a pack meets rock and grit. It is a specification a mill licenses rather than a single fabric, so Cordura appears in weights from light shelter cloth to heavy pack bottoms.

Softshell

A softshell is a stretchy woven fabric with a brushed or knitted backing that blocks wind and sheds light rain while still breathing hard. It replaces a rain shell on cold, dry, windy days and is the standard fabric for technical hiking pants.

Base layer

A base layer is the garment worn directly against your skin under everything else. Its job is moving sweat off your skin so it evaporates somewhere other than on you, which is why warmth is a secondary consideration and cotton is disqualified.

Merino wool

Merino wool is fine-diameter wool from Merino sheep, spun for next-to-skin clothing at roughly 17 to 19.5 microns. That fineness is what stops it prickling, and it brings odour resistance and warmth when damp at the cost of abrasion life.

Fabric weight (gsm)

Fabric weight in gsm is the mass of one square meter of the cloth, in grams. On a base layer it is the single number that sets the temperature window: about 150 gsm for warm weather, about 200 gsm for three-season hiking, 280 and up for cold.

UPF

UPF, or Ultraviolet Protection Factor, rates how much ultraviolet radiation a fabric blocks. A UPF 30 garment lets about one thirtieth of the UV hitting it through, so it blocks roughly 96.7 percent; UPF 50 lets one fiftieth through, or 98 percent.

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