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Sleep systems

Underquilt

Also called hammock underquilt, under quilt

What is an underquilt?

An underquilt is an insulated quilt that hangs on the outside of a hammock, cradling it from below. Because your body never lies on it, nothing compresses the loft, which is why it works where a sleeping bag underneath you does not.

Underquilt at a glance

Feels cool from
About 65 to 70 F
Quilt territory
Below about 45 to 50 F
Full length
Around 16 oz
Three quarter
Around 11 oz
Typical price
$120 to $230

Why a hammock needs one at all

Insulation works by trapping still air, and it can only do that while it's lofted. Lie on a sleeping bag and your weight crushes the fill underneath you flat, so the half of the bag between you and the outside world stops insulating almost entirely. On the ground that's fine, because a sleeping pad handles it. In a hammock there's nothing under you but fabric and moving air, and moving air pulls heat out of your back far faster than still ground ever does.

The result surprises almost everyone. Most hammock campers start feeling cool somewhere around 65 to 70 degrees, which is a pleasant summer night, and below roughly 45 to 50 degrees the usual advice is to stop trying to make a pad work and buy the quilt.

Underquilt or sleeping pad

A pad is the cheap answer and it does work. A thin closed-cell foam pad weighs a couple of ounces against eleven to sixteen for a quilt, and costs a fraction as much. The problem is that it won't stay put. In a single-layer hammock a foam pad folds around you and slides out through the night, and inflatable pads are worse still, because they're slick and nothing is holding them.

Two things fix that. A double-layer hammock has a sleeve between its two sheets of fabric sized to hold a pad exactly where you put it, and that's the cheapest real solution. The other option is to move the insulation outside the hammock altogether, which is what an underquilt is. Out there nothing ever compresses it, so it delivers its full rating at a weight no crushed bag can match.

Full length or three quarter

Full-length quilts run head to foot and weigh around sixteen ounces in a 40-degree rating. Three-quarter quilts stop short of your feet and save about five ounces, on the reasoning that a pack or spare clothing under your calves covers the gap. Prices generally start near $120 and climb past $230 once you're buying from the well-known makers.

Fit matters more here than it does with a top quilt. An underquilt has to sit snug against the hammock's underside along its whole length, because any gap turns into a channel of moving air. Hang it too tight, though, and it pulls the hammock out of shape. Most come with adjustable shock cord at each end for exactly that reason.

What this means when you're choosing

  • Full length versus three quarter, which is roughly five ounces either way
  • Suspension shock cord at both ends so you can close gaps without distorting the hang
  • A temperature rating you can compare, and whether it is comfort or limit
  • Whether it fits the length of hammock you actually own

Underquilt vs Backpacking quilt

UnderquiltBackpacking quilt
Where it goesOutside the hammock, underneath youOver you, like a bag with the back removed
What it replacesThe sleeping pad, in a hammockThe sleeping bag, on the ground or in a hammock
Why it worksNothing compresses it, so the loft is always liveRemoves the fill you were compressing anyway
Used on the groundNo, it needs something to hang fromYes, that is its main use

Which to pick: These two work together rather than competing. A cold-weather hammock setup usually wants both, an underquilt below and a top quilt above. Buy the underquilt first, because that's the side the cold is coming from.

The common mistake

Bringing the tent sleeping bag and nothing else

A bag rated to 30 degrees on the ground isn't rated to 30 degrees in a hammock. Half of it is crushed flat under you, and the wind has free access to your back. It's one of the most common reasons a first hammock trip ends early, and it happens at temperatures that feel mild.

Common questions

Can I use a sleeping pad in a hammock instead of an underquilt?

Yes, and it's much cheaper. A thin closed-cell foam pad weighs a couple of ounces and works fine, as long as it stays put. In a single-layer hammock it usually won't, and inflatables are the worst offenders. A double-layer hammock with a pad sleeve solves that for far less than a quilt costs.

At what temperature do I need an underquilt?

Earlier than you'd expect. Most people start noticing the cold underneath them around 65 to 70 degrees, and below roughly 45 to 50 degrees experienced hammock campers stop improvising with pads. What does the damage is the air moving under the hammock, more than the air temperature itself.

Do I still need a top quilt or sleeping bag?

Yes. An underquilt only covers the side your weight would otherwise have crushed. You still need insulation over you, and a top quilt is the usual choice, because it's the same warmth minus the flattened underside and minus a zip to fight with inside a hammock.

Where this is defined

Where this comes up

Guides on Tom's Hiking where underquilt changes which product is right for you.

More in sleep systems

R-value

R-value measures how well a sleeping pad resists heat escaping into the ground. Higher numbers insulate better, and since 2020 every brand has tested to the same standard, so the numbers finally compare across brands.

Fill power

Fill power measures the loft of down: how many cubic inches one ounce expands to fill. Higher fill power traps more air per unit of weight, so an 850 fill bag is lighter and more compressible than a 650 fill bag of the same warmth.

Fill weight

Fill weight is how much insulation is actually inside a sleeping bag or jacket, given in grams or ounces. Paired with fill power it tells you what a bag's warmth is made of, and it's the number brands are least keen to publish.

Hydrophobic down

Hydrophobic down is down treated with a water-repellent finish so it resists moisture, dries faster and keeps some loft when damp. It delays the failure that untreated down suffers when wet, but it doesn't make down behave like synthetic.

EN/ISO temperature rating

EN/ISO is the standardised lab test that gives sleeping bags their temperature ratings. It produces several figures, and the two that matter are comfort, aimed at a standard cold sleeper, and limit, aimed at a standard warm sleeper.

Mummy bag

A mummy bag is a sleeping bag cut wide at the shoulders and narrow at the feet, with a hood that closes around your head. The taper leaves less air inside for your body to heat, which is why it is the warmest shape for its weight.

Draft collar

A draft collar is an insulated tube around the neck opening of a sleeping bag, cinched to seal the gap at your shoulders. It stops warm air pumping out of the top of the bag every time you move, which is where most heat is lost.

Baffle

A baffle is a fabric wall sewn between the inner and outer shells of a down bag to hold the down in place. Without baffles the down migrates to the low side and leaves cold spots where there's no insulation at all.

Footbox

The footbox is the shaped end of a sleeping bag or quilt where your feet sit. It's built with extra volume so the insulation isn't crushed flat by your toes, which is the coldest spot in most sleep systems.

Backpacking quilt

A backpacking quilt is a sleeping bag with the back removed and no hood, strapped to your sleeping pad instead. It cuts weight and bulk by deleting insulation that a bag crushes flat underneath you and that does nothing there anyway.

Pad attachment system

A pad attachment system is whatever keeps your bag or quilt joined to your sleeping pad, usually elastic straps that pass under the pad and clip to the quilt. It stops the two separating in the night on any surface that isn't flat.

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