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Yosemite Decimal System

Also called YDS, class 1 to 5, class ratings

What is the Yosemite Decimal System?

The Yosemite Decimal System rates how technical terrain is on a scale from class 1 to class 5. Class 1 is walking, class 2 adds rough ground and occasional hand use, class 3 is scrambling where a fall could injure you, class 4 is exposed scrambling, and class 5 is roped climbing.

Yosemite Decimal System at a glance

Class 1
Trail walking
Class 2
Rough ground, occasional hands
Class 3
Scrambling, a fall injures
Class 5
Roped technical climbing

What the classes mean on the ground

Class 1 is walking on a trail. Class 2 is rough off-trail ground where you might put a hand down, which covers most talus and scree. Class 3 is real scrambling: you are using your hands to make upward progress, and a fall would hurt you seriously. Class 4 is scrambling with enough exposure that many parties rope up. Class 5 is technical climbing, subdivided from 5.0 upward, and is a different sport.

The line worth knowing is between 2 and 3, because that is where consequence changes. On class 2 a slip is a scrape. On class 3 a slip is a fall, and a fall is an injury or worse. Trip reports that describe a route as a hike right up to a short class 3 step are describing something a lot of people should turn around at.

Why the ratings feel inconsistent

They are subjective and they are regional. A route rated class 3 in the Sierra is often harder than a class 3 in the Rockies, and guidebook authors sandbag routes they know well. The rating also assumes dry rock in good conditions: any class 3 becomes something else entirely when wet, iced or snow-covered.

It also says nothing about exposure or route length. A short class 3 move a meter above a ledge and a hundred meters of class 3 above a drop carry the same number and completely different consequences.

What this means when you're choosing

  • Whether a route's rating is for dry conditions, which almost all of them are
  • Sticky rubber and a stiff enough edge, which is what class 3 rock asks of a shoe
  • How long the hard section is, since the class says nothing about its length

The common mistake

Reading class 3 as a slightly harder hike

Class 3 is where a fall stops being a scrape and becomes an injury. A trip report calling a peak an easy hike with a bit of class 3 near the top is describing terrain where a meaningful number of parties should turn around, particularly if the rock is wet.

Common questions

What is the difference between class 2 and class 3?

Consequence. On class 2 you might put a hand down and a slip is a scrape. On class 3 you are using your hands to climb and a slip is a fall that injures you. That is the line most hikers should decide about in advance.

Do I need a rope for class 4?

Many parties use one. Class 4 is scrambling with enough exposure that a fall is likely to be fatal, so whether you rope up is a judgement about your own comfort on that specific rock rather than a rule.

Are the ratings consistent between areas?

No. They are subjective and regional, and Sierra ratings in particular have a reputation for being stiff. All of them assume dry rock in good conditions.

Where this is defined

Where this comes up

Guides on Tom's Hiking where yosemite decimal system changes which product is right for you.

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